Celia Fiennes

From 'Through England on a Side Saddle in the Time of William and Mary'

1698

Glocester town Lyes all along on the bancks of y^e Severn and soe Look'd Like a very huge place, being stretch'd out in Length, its a Low Moist place therefore one must travel on Causeys which are here in good repaire. I pass'd over a Bridge where two armes of the river meetes where y^c tyde is very high and rowles in the sand in many places and Causes those Whirles or Hurricanes that will Come on storms w^th great jmpetuosity.

Thence I proceeded over another Bridge into y^e town whose streetes are very well pitch'd, Large and Cleane. There is a faire Market place and Hall for y^e assizes w^ch happened just as we Came there, soe had y^e worst Entertainemt and noe accomodation but in a private house. Things ought not to be Deare here, but Strangers are allwayes imposed on and at such a publick tyme alsoe they make their advantages. Here is a very Large good Key on the river, they are supply'd w^th Coales by y^e shipps and Barges w^ch makes it plentifull; they Carry it on sledges thro' y^e town-its the great Warwickshire Coale I saw unloading. Here they follow knitting stockings, gloves wauscoates and peticoates and sleeves all of Cotten, and others spinn the Cottens. The Cathedrall or minster is Large, Lofty and very neate, the Quire pretty. At y^e Entrance there is a seate over head for y^e Bishop to sit in to hear the sermon preached in y^e body of y e Church, and therefore the organ is in the Quire on one side w^ch used to be at y^e Entrance. There was a tomb stone in y^e middle w^th a statue of Duke Roberts, second son to William the Conquerours son, w^th his Legs across as is the manner of all those that went to the holy warre; this is painted and resembles marble tho' it is but wood and soe Light as by one ffinger you may move it up, there is an jron Grate over it. At y^e alter the painting is soe ffine that y^e tapistry and pillars and ffigure of Moses and Aaron soe much to the Life you would at Least think it Carv'd. There are 12 Chappells all stone finely Carv'd on y^e walls and rooffs, the windows are pretty Large and high w^th very good painting, there is a Large window just over y^e Alter but between it and y^e alter is a hollow walled in on each side w^ch is a Whispering place; speake never so Low just in the Wall at one End the person at y^e other End shall heare it plaine tho' those w^ch stand by you shall not heare you speake-its y^e Wall Carrys y^e voyce. This seems not quite soe wonderfull as I have heard, for y^e Large roome in Mountague house soe remarkable for fine painting I have been in it, and when y^e Doores are shutt its so well suited in y^e Walls you Cannot tell where to find the Doore if a stranger, and its a Large roome Every way. I saw a Lady stand at one Corner and turn herself to the wall and whisper'd, y^e voice Came very Cleer and plaine to y^e Company that stood at y^e Crosse Corner y^e roome soe y^t it Could not be Carry'd by y^e side wall, it must be the arch overhead w^ch was a great height. -But to return to y^e Church, the tower was 203 stepps, the Large bell I stood upright in but it was not so bigg as y^e great Tom of Lincoln, this bell at Glocester is raised by ten and rung by 6 men On the tower Leads you have a prospect of y^e whole town, gardens and buildings and grounds beyond and y^e river Severn in its twistings and windings. Here are y^e fine Lamprys taken in great quantetys in their season, of w^ch they make pyes and potts and Convey them to London or Else where, such a present being fitt for a king; this and y^e Charr fish are Equally rare and valuable. Here are very good Cloysters finely adorn'd with ffretwork, here is the Colledge and Library but not stored w^th many books. I think this was all the remarkable in Glocester.